My absolute favourite aspect to London Collections Men is being backstage. There’s such an intense energy and so many creative bodies, all working towards one goal: to put on an epic show.
From the fit of the clothing down to the makeup on a model’s hands, it’s all got to be sorted.
As a guest of both TONI&GUY and Fudge Professional this season, I went backstage on seven different shows to see the hairstyles that they were creating and – more importantly – how they were doing them.
But, like the clothing on the catwalk, not every hairstyle is your everyday look… except if you’re super-confident or a mass eccentric.
I’ve picked out four of my favourites – Katie Eary, Matthew Miller, Belstaff and Chester Barrie – to feature in the video at the bottom, but have outlined all seven styles in this article.
I’ve also mentioned how you can ‘tone them down‘ and use them as inspiration, rather than a direct prescription to hair happiness.
Katie Eary – hair by Fudge Professional
Although there were two hair inspirations in Katie Eary’s show, it was the Teenwolf quiff that really got me.
Bed head vibes and big volume gave me quiff envy and absolute #HairGoals in equal measures.
- The hair was dampened using Fudge Tri-Blo to create a foundation.
- Fudge Hot Hed Style Whip (mousse) was then added to maximise volume.
- Using a hairdryer, the hair was dried in an upwards motion whilst spraying Skyscraper hairspray for hold.
- Finally, Fudge Hair Shaper was applied all over to created a bed head effect.
Everday: This look is pretty much ready to go. You can alter how big you want the quiff to be depending on how Teenwolf you’re really feeling.
For a quiff with more flex and movement, reduce the amount of hairspray you’re using.
Matthew Miller – hair by TONI&GUY using Label M
Matthew Miller’s collection was all about strong shapes and soft textures; and was one of my favourite shows. Everything – from the hair to the clothing – was so wearable.
They wanted hair with texture to contrast with the angular nature of the clothing.
- Label M Thickening Tonic and Sea Salt Spray was used to dampen the hair.
- Multiple clips were placed in the hair to hold a wave, whilst the hair was dried with a diffuser.
- When dry, the clips were removed and the hair was combed through in a wave motion.
- The hair was finished by smoothing Label M Grooming Cream throughout the hair.
Everyday: This hairstyle is pretty time heavy, so it’s not one for the “oh, shit, I’ve just woken up and have 10 minutes to get to work,” sorts of days.
Save for the weekend, or if you have time prep your hair the night before, sleep with the clips in. Could be a restless night…
Belstaff – hair by Fudge Professional
The Belstaff collection was based upon cold adventure riding and the pursuit of freedom. Essentially, the dream!
As a result, the hair was to reflect the journey of riding through the snowy mountains – messy with matte textures and a slight helmet head shape.
- The hair was first primed using Fudge Tri-Blo.
- Fudge Salt Spray was then added direct to the roots to give a gritty texture.
- Fudge Hair Shaper was used, pushing up to give a a messy effect.
- The hair was dried with a medium heat hairdryer.
- To give a matte finish to the hair, Fudge Dry Shampoo was used followed by Elevate Styling Powder.
Everyday: I watched this hairstyle being created in less than five minutes and it was really very simple.
If you want to cut down on the amount of products being used, ditch the dry shampoo at the end. The styling powder will help to add a little bit of volume and movement to the style.
Chester Barrie – hair by TONI&GUY using Label M
The Chester Barrie collection was all about glamour – classic looks had added sparkle and modernity.
Hair inspiration was of an actor going to a red carpet movie premiere. They wanted hair that was matte, natural and groomed but not overly glamorous.
Think: Less David Beckham black tie, more David Beckham out with the kids at the park.
- Label M Volume Mousse was used first and dried away from the face with a hairdryer.
- A little bit (tiny!) of Label M Max Wax was worked into the hair to create separation and natural shine.
- The style was finished by spritzing Label M Texturising Volume Spray all over.
Everyday: I absolutely love Label M, but the Max Wax is my least favourite from the range. It can be hard to apply to the hair and doesn’t easily wash out.
My tip would be to swap the Max Wax out for Label M’s Deconstructor. The product has a matte finish but is a lot easier to apply and wash out.
E Tautz – hair by TONI&GUY using Label M
E Tautz was all about the 80s roller disco in Tollcross, Edinburgh.
The hair needed to reflect this, so was naturally big, bouncy and full of texture.
- Label M Thickening Tonic was worked through the hair and then blowdried away from the face.
- A small amount of Label M Desconstructor was then worked through the hair from front to back to add more structure.
- The look was set using Label M hairspray.
Everday: This look is perfect if your hair is already big, voluminous and has a slight wave. If not, the Label M Thickening Tonic will be your saviour.
Baartmans and Siegel – hair by TONI&GUY using Label M
Baartmans and Siegel is always such a fantastic collection. So many textures and everything [alone] is so wearable.
The collection was inspired by Spanish Harlem, 1970s urban New York, with a rich mix of cultures and tribes.
The hair was all about glamour, volume and movement – working with the natural hair and giving it more!
- Label M’s Thickening Tonic was first used to add volume.
- The hair was then dried up and away from the face.
- For a slightly greasier finish, the hair was then overloaded with Label M Deconstructor.
Everyday: Much like the E Tautz style, this one is good to go.
If you want even more (more, more, more!) volume, try using a styling mousse after the thickening tonic. That will totally plump up the hair and make it properly big.
Sibling – hair by Fudge Professional
The collection was inspired by Sibling’s obsession with pop culture of the 70s and 80s especially two of the biggest icons: Grace Jones and Jean Michel Basquiat.
Taking inspiration from Grace Jones’ album colours, acid yellow, blood red and rich blue hair wefts (coloured using Fudge Professional Paintbox) were added to the hair.
- The hair was first primed using Fudge Professional Tri-Blo to create a light hold and heat protection.
- For extra volume, Fudge Hot Hed was then applied and swept up and away from the face using a hairdryer.
- Hair wefts were glued into the front of the hair.
- The front and crown of the hair were curled slightly using a tong to create a buffalo inspired flick.
- Fudge Professional Head Shine was sprayed all over the hair for a sweaty wet look finish.
Everyday: Ditch the hair weft (seriously) and swap out the Head Shine for a matte finish hairspray.
You’ll have the movement of the style, but without the peacock, ‘look at me‘ colour.